Mar 2007

Hopefully, this is the entry where finally, Rich pulls his finger out of his proverbial and gets the much awaited photographs from the first three weeks of Indian living online, and available for viewing by the masses!! If however, this does not materialse, as Indian computers appear to be as reliable as their buses, then fear not, Rich IS working hard at resolving the problem as you read. (Probably.....)
In addition to this, I (rich) appear to have sat myself next to possibly the most foul smelling little urchin yet to emerge from our travels. A heady mixture of sweat, booze and manky suncream, creating a noxious stench. So please bear this in mind if the entry abruptly ends - it's more than likely a result of falling, dazed and nauseated from my chair and landing in a semi-comatose state!

Anyway, to the matter in hand: -
Palolem is like nothing we've seen before. Granted, the crescent shaped beach, backed by numerous palm trees is exceptionally picturesque, but the atmosphere here is brilliant. There is a real mix of people, ranging from old time Goan ravers, to cockney wideboys, (of whom there are many), to the ubiquitous eternal traveller, (usually spotted sporting dreadlocks, fishermen trousers and a gormless, somewhat puzzled look on their faces) to groups of girls who look, to me at least, like they are on a two week package holiday. Indeed, I've heard now that Goa is attracting some of the Ibiza crowd, as flights are on a par in terms of cost nowadays apparently! This eclectic mix creates a really nice atmosphere, where everyone is exceptionally laid back. This is probably helped by the fact that just about everybody appears to be stoned!

Yesterday Shonah and I, and also our friends Jayne and James went on a dolphin spotting boat ride in a local style boat. Essentially these are made from mango tree, with a large stabilising hull on the right (or should that be starboard, side), essentially like a catamaran. We were on the boat with a really enthusiastic Indian character, who spoke limited english, but who's happiness at eventualy spotting dolphins was clearly evident, when he almost left his seat, jumping around in presumed ecstacy! In fairness, it was an excelent experience, made all the more special by this guys obvious passion for such creatures. Towards the end of the trip we stopped at a deserted beach, named Honeymoon Beach, for an hour. It was deserted for the majority of the time and was a welcome respite from the mainland!
In the evening, we ate at a seafront restaurant, feasting on Kingfish, Kalamari (Sp?) and kebabs straight from the beach side tandoor! Food was excellent, if a little lacking service, with plates arriving one at a time, with an average gap of 5-8 mins in between!! Ahh well, the views were excellent and the beer tasted even better!

The accommodation we have found is an absolute bargain, at 175 Rs a night (roughly equivalent to 2 pound ish a night). Its essentially a beach hut on stilts, located right on Palolem beach. However, at night it's incredibly quiet and we both fall asleep to the sound of waves crashing only metres away!

Today we have had a lazy day, moving only as my insatiable hunger pangs become too much to bare at around 2pm.

Anyways, to the all important pics. Please see below, to the right, to ther left, above, on another page (I've no idea where theyre going to be located). Here goes...............
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PS, Nan and Max - It's great to see you've managed to set up an account and can post replies to our diaries!! It means a lot when we can see that people are actually reading these things!! Hope all is well and max is still spritely!!
Take care of yourself,

Not sure if it's this place, the climate, the people (probably a combination of all) that makes writing a diary entry on here a likely boring story to read for all you people back home! We've not got much to let you know about - weathers good, foods good, bed is a bit hard, sho is feeling a million percent better.

By the way, Rosa - the plug in mossy thing works a treat and is adorning the hut socket (albeit rather precariously as a result of the not so clever Goan electrical sockets!!) and seems to be repelling the dreaded mosquitoes!! Thanks very much Barry!

We're hiring a moped tomorrow and driving the quiet coastal road down to Palolem, apparently the most idylic beach in Goa. We're going to just scout the beach huts and enjoy the drive before probably relocating down there permanently on tuesday. Also, our friends from Pushkar are down there at the moment and have mentioned a fishing trip they're thinkng of doing which sounds like a good idea to us!! Had never really thought of doing anything like that!!

Anyway, as time ticks on, so does the money from our pockets, so we'll leave it there!
Bye for now,
Rich and Sho

PS - Squeal - Hope youre working hard and saving your money for your trip!! Not long now hey! We'll do our best to catch up with you in singapore, even if only for a couple of hours before you fly out elsewhere!!

Gran Dobson - I am having cravings for the bacon sandwiches you used to make. Please can i put a request in for one (with the crusts cut off) and grilled tomatoes aqs well as a tomato cup of soup!.

Mum - Hope work was ok at the weekend!. Can't wait for a sunday roast!. Graet to hear about Andrea's house. Well done Steven and Dave!

Love Sho
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(Rich typing)
We've decided to take respite from the extremely hot sun in the relative solace of the local 'internet cafe'. With the air conditioning on, it makes a real haven from outside! It seems to be getting hotter by the day at the moment, although the sea makes a refreshing, if warm, break!
Yesterday we dragged ourselves off the beach to the hustle and bustle of Anjuna Flea market. (a one and a half hour bus ride from here) Originally this was started back in the swinging sixties by "hippies and freaks" as they're affectionately known in the lonely planet and by locals, wanting to extend their stay in India, by raising money by selling little trinkets, souvenirs and cakes etc. Nowadays it's a huge affair, where you need at least 4 hours to do it any justice! We went with our new found famous friend - an English-American called Sam, who is an actor, and has starred in films such as, Snatch, Hackers, Eyes Wide Closed and can now be found gracing the West End in Porgy and Bess! Hes here on his own and is staying a little down the beach at some other beach huts.
At the market we bought a selection of ultimately useless things, such as little coconut boxes, jewelery and (admittedly mre useful) a couple of pashminas and some handmade salad servers for our house in newcastle. (made from yak horn shonah states!) The market was incredibly hot, only made bearable by the frequent drink stops at little bars.
Upon returning we went for a swim as the sun set, in warm waters and slightly cooler air temps. All very romantic! haha.
After having showered we went to the local restaurant for our first proper meal together since shonah got ill. Was like luxury to order what we both wanted, instead of ordering what sho could manage to keep down! We even had starters and two bottles of beer - splashing out for the evening. Our frivolties cost us back the equivalent of 6 pounds - money well spent we reasoned!
This morning we spent another few hours on the beach, contemplating if and when, (or more like, if we can actually be bothered to move) we will move elsewhere. Our logic at the moment jleads us to believe we'll be hard pushed to find anywhere else worth moving to permanently, so for now, we stay firmly put. If we do decide to move, we're going to hire mopeds for the day and go and see whats what.

Gilly - no idea as to why australia couldn't read our diaries - the address you gave is correct and should work fine over there?

Hope things in the UK are alright.
Love to all,
Rich and Sho
xx

Hello everyone,

Thanks for your messages( Mum, Jim, Dad, Nikki). Its great to hear that things are good back home! Not long now Nickki and John!. Mum Tulip , i'm pleased the flock is ok!. Pa Dobson... We arrived fine took 1 hour. Jim, it's hard to make it look like we've both been writing each entry, so accept our apologies if its a bit biased towards certain people at times!!

So... we got the bus from Udaipur to Bombay on the 2nd March. This was an overnight bus in which i vomited 3 times (why do indians insist on making everything smell so horrible!) ... it's worse when you feel sick already. Our bus started to the sound of a Bollywood movie (or 5) which drove uus insane. It is basically Indian men dressed in shellsuits dancing around gyrating their hips in a perverted fashion.

The hotel in Bombay was fine and relatively quiet! so that was nice.
I did not step foot outside the hotel room for the 2 days we wetre in Bombay as my illness got worse. I had eaten nothing for 2 days. Rich insisted on getting a doctor to come to the hotel as it wasn't getting better. Doctor came and asked me if 'my shit is like water'! he appologised for the language but i was too faint to care although thid did make us chuckle! He then decided i needed 3 injections to my utter HORROR! He said "in your bottom"... so i got it out then felf like a comlete fool as he really meant "in your hip". It felt like he was using a wooden spoon and so i shouted at him to which he replied "be quiet maam... you are not a child"! lol. It seems to be alot better now anyway but the doctors motto worried me abit when he said it is really god that heals and we must trust in him! . Im am only to eat toast (no butter)for 5 days!

Rich ventured out of the room at one point in search of some good old English foddr (macdonalds!). He returned to the hotel covered in paint of all colurs from head to toe! He has been attacked by a group of teenage lads who were celebrating the Hindi festival of colour called 'Holi'. This made us both have a good laugh!

We flew from Bombay to Goa on the 5th March. We are staying in a 'coco hut'. It is a hut ( a bit like a teepee) built of bamboo and palm leaves. The beach is fab and it really is a haven although it is very very hot! You can't walk on the sand in bare feet as it burns them.

Will update soon. We will probably be staying here in Goa at a place called Benaulim for a while.

Loads of love 2 all

Shonah and Rich (Dobber and Dicky)
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Hello!
We leave Udaipur at 4pm, today, on a coach destined for Bombay - a city more perplexing, intense and equally as large as Delhi. Neither of us are really looking forward to it, but we're viewing it as a means to an end, as we fly to Goa from there a little under 2 days later. We've both got a lot riding on Goa (south) being relaxing, warm and beach infested!! I am certainly looking forward to a life without temples, palaces and prayer ceremonies for at least a few days. Many of the people we've met on our travels so far have said that we wont be dissapointed, especialy seeing as this time is classed as the end of the high season. Hopefully the beach bars wont be too busy!!
We're both suffering at the moment with a few stomach cramps, although so far, Rich has managed to steer clear of the dreaded Diarrhoea. (Touch wood and keep your fingers crossed for me!) However, his stomach cramps are really painful and are certainly putting a tiny tiny damper on things. Am eating plenty of fruit though and drinking plenty of fluids so should get over it soon!!
On a big big plus note, we managed to find an elephant ride the other day!! It was certainly a hi-lite of the trip so far. She was so graceful and unbelievably huge!! It did make me think though, that maybe she wasnt that happy traipsing through the city? Maybe this kind of thing, although obviously highly lucrative to the owners and even more attractive to money flashing tourists, is a sad indictment (sp?) of the way people are willing to do anything to make their 'buck'. Is travelling realy this selfish?!
(protest over)

Hope everyone back home in sunny England and Scotland are well. Kepp posting comments! It's excellent to read them and they certainly give us a smile!!

Love to All,
Dicky and Dobber