Nepal

Hello,

Rich is writing an entry also at the moment so you will know what we have been doing. It's been fantastic!. Happy Easter everyone! I'm so jealous that you all get easter eggs.

Mum Tulip... I really want a massive THORNTONS EGG FROM THE SALES!. You could stock up and i'll eat it when i return (hint hint)!. Not long till Colonsay now!. I think i will call you tonight. I did try and call a couple of times but there was no answer.

Dad Dobson, i hope you have had a nice holiday, i heard that it snowed!. E-mail me to let me know all about it! Happy b-day for tomorrow. We will celebrate it when i'm back again. I'll take you for a pint... that's a promise. Then we can have a good old catch up!. It's a shame Gran went into hospital. I called her a couple of days after you had gone on hol and there was no answer so that worried me a bit then i spoke to Gran and Grandad on sunday and they told me what had happend. They will be pleased to have you around again i'm sure. Gran sounded very chirpy though so that made me feel a bit happier! She insisted she was o.k. You could e-mail me to let me know what is going on?

Rosa and barry,
Well done on your trek Baz! Sounds like an adventure! Am very proud of you! Happy Easter to you both. Eat some Haggi!

Andrea and Steven,
I keep buying nice baby clothes. Got a lovely little Nepalese baby Jacket. Sent u a letter but it will prob take a month. Hope your well!

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Well, since arriving back from the trek on the 6th April, the inevitable post trek stiffness still hadn't abated so we both decided a traditional 'Ayurvedic Massage' was required to soothe away our pains. We negotiated a pretty decent price for the both of us (Less than 5 pound for an hour each) and we both duly stripped off to our underwear and lay prone on the beds. I (Rich) had explained to the guy that my calfs and quads were in tatters and that even walking was a real test of my steel! No problems he assured me! Anyway, as he started working on my feet it all seemed brilliant - I was even starting to drift off into a semi-sleep! Alas though, this was not to be the case for the rest of the session. As he progressed further up my legs the pain became more and more intense. When his "healing hands" reached the middle of my calf, I felt like I was going to scream in agony! The pain as he seperated the muscles in my legs using his knuckles was something akin to having your legas run over by an articulated lorry! I was doing my utmost not to writhe around the bed like a little girl and instead made do with gripping the matress i was lay prone on, in a vice like grip, gritting my teeth and attempting to put this assault to the back of my mind. When he'd finished my calfs, he progressed up to my thighs - "Surely this can't be as painful as the lower legs" I convinced myself. How wrong a man can be!! As he started going to town on my quads the pain became so intense that at one point I thought I was going to wimper!! Again, I 'took it like a man' (haha) and just crunched the matress in my fists and tried to ignore it. Evidently though, I wasnt ignoring it as well as I thought I had been! I could hear chuckles and opened my eyes to see Sho and her 'massager' laughing at my misfortune! "Ahhhh, you feel a little bit pain here" my guy chirps in. "Hmmmm, a little i suppose yeah" i retort, just relieved that he'd ceased with his torture for a few seconds. HE carried on though, just as hard and as firm as before! By the end of the session I was so relieved to be able to get out of there!! On the other hand though, Shonah loved it!! Maybe she is more tolerant of that kind of pain. I'm sure it was more down to the fact that I had the nepali equivalent of a Geordie Miner/Trawlerman/Dock Worker, whilst she had the soft hands of the nepali equivalent of a big cuddly aunt or nan. Who knows. And to rub salt into the wound, in the morning I felt just as bad, if not worse!! Today though, I'm a different man! Full of the joys and spritely with all aches and pains banished! Im reluctant to attribute this to the massage though and reckon it's maybe natural recovery!? Who knows!!

Yesterday, we hired a motor bike ("WHAT!! On the roads of Nepal" I can hear all the parents and caring friends and relatives thinking) and rode to another lake about 40 minutes outside of Pokarah. It was absoloutely brilliant, and I actually began to relish getting "stuck" in traffic. This was one of the hi-lights of the bike trip, as weaving in and out of massive HGV's and buses who sit, stuck in traffic in the sweltering sun, became really really good fun. Basically, you can become a really selfish agressive dri ver and no one minds!! The more you honk your horn and swerve and get as close to the car in front as is physically possible, the more you look like a local! We had masses of fun! However, towards the end pf the day, the "3pm clouds" came in and we were being chased by a HUGE storm. As we belted down the highway all we could see in the mirrors were the black clouds starting to engulf us. It was like somethiong out of Twister, the film. In the end, the rain caught up with us and we turned round to face it - face to face, man to man. We decided to cut our losses and headed right into the eye of the storm.
Bearing in mind we were probably doing 30-40 mph, the force of the raindrops hitting us in the face was almost enough to bring tears! We were both laughing hysterically as we shot through the deserted streets, driving through floods that half covered the wheels, both absolutely drenched to the bone! We eventually reached the hotel, dumped the bike and ran inside, nursing red welts in raindrop sized circles! We both agreed that it was one of the funniest days yet!
Anyway, today we have been really really lazy - writing diaries and reading books and contemplating moving to Kathmandu tomorrow. Its about a 7 hour bus journey and we'll probably leave at 7"30 on one of the numerous buses that ply the route. We'll inform all of you when we get chance.

Happy easter by the way - We'd completely forgotten and neither of us got any eggs anyway!!! LOL.

Hope everything back home is well. Look after yourselves!

Rich

Namaste! (Hello in Nepalese)

How is everyone? I hope you are all good.
Well we made it back yesterday as you will have gathered from Dicky's entry and we had a few cocktails last night to celebrate!. The trek was fantastic and i certainly feel like i have worked the old muscles. Can't believe i managed to walk bout 100 miles with a 10kg backpack on! Am chuffed. One day i found it very very hard though when we had to ascend 1900m in about 6 hours... my little legs cained and i got in a bit of a grump but only for a min! lol!

Today in Pokorah they are starting the new year celebrations which is really strange! I didn't find this out till last night. New years eve is next fri i think.

Mum Tulip,
Yes the air does get thin but i managed to breath fine all the way.We didn't really notice the lack of Oxygen although at one point it was only 65%. You would love all the mountail Asses (i think they are donkeys crossed with horses?) Meybe this is called a mule... i don't know. They carry huge packs and climb up what are basically cliff faces! . Wow! a parade is going past the door with Elephants in it! The Elephant stopped out the door of the internet cafe and did the biggest pile of poo i have EVER EVER EVER seen and wee. Anyway... my face is fine, will get Rich 2 put a pic on soon I am wintering well as you would say! My legs are very strong after trekking so i can kick anyone in incase of an attack!
Your method of making pointing cement sounds good! I can just picture you rolling a bucket around the yard! .

Rosa and Ali Banter

Howe good 2 hear from u both! Sounds like come the end of the year we will all have real jobs! hopefully we will also have plenty of money then too and can afford to do lovely thingfs together! (like go out in Consett !! LOL hahahaha!) Like the old days, then go for hot hobs!. Meybe will be able to afford to do something more sophisticated? who knows! We havve put a deposit on a flat to rent in Newc starting in July so there is always a spare room there if you want to ever come and stay which i would love. You could both come together perhaps and we will throw Rich out for the night (send him 2 Wadders house?). That would be fun! Will b great having u back up North Ali!
Yeay
My love always to you both
Shonah
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Nikki!
You must be so exited now! I found some conditioner so my hair didn't snap off thank god! Send me the dates!
Love me

Gary,
Next time you turn on the T.V expect to see me with a towel ropund my head! Prob for punching some annoying Indian!
Can't wait to see how MASSIVE u are!
Love Sho nips

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Well, 7 days, about 8000m total ascent and 140 km later, we've completed our trek. To say it was amazing would be a massive understatement.
We flew from Pokarah to the tiniest airport in the world (it consisted of two desks and little more than a ten metre long corridor) on the smartest plane we have ever flown on. With room for just 14 passengers, it was tiny. Getting in was a problem for me (rich) as the headroom must have been around 5 foot which meant I had to walk with a considerable stoop to my seat. Anyway, we managed to get on the right hand side of the plane which meant we got breath taking views of the mountains. It was easily the best flight of our lives!
We arrived in Jomsom, collected our bags and set off after having our trekking permits checked by the local police forces and army. The weather was perfect as we headed onwards and upwards towards Kagbeni - a little village at about 2000 metres. It was only a 3 hour walk, but we'd been advised to stay there a night, as having flown straight to 1000 odd metres, we might be susceptible to Altitude Sickness. As it was, we arrived in Kagbeni and had no problems at all, leaving us both thinking we'd have been able to shoot straight up to Muktinath at 3000 odd metres without too many problems - But who are we to argue with the mountains?! Neither of us minded the extra wait acclimatising in Kagbeni though, as again, the views were truly unbelievable. The next day was a massive uphill slog, covering around 18 km and gaining 1000 ish metres, eventually reaching the settlement of Muktinath. Again, we had no problems with altitude, (We were starting to think we could maybe challenge Alan Hinkes or Reinhold Messner for rapid ascents of 8000 metre peaks) and enjoyed a night spent with a group of Aussies on an organised trek. They were all nice guys and girls, but it felt remarkably like being on a school trip. Not one of them carried their own bags and they even had a guy to bring round hot water to the tables to wash their hands before they ate! Whilst we are on the topic of bag carrying, we've been amazed at the amount of people doing the route but who aren't carrying their own bags! We're talking about big, 6 foot plus, strapping russians waltzing along with a grimacing, contorted face carrying absolutely zilch, whilst their porters ( who, incidentally, were about 17, and no taller than 5 foot five) slog along with them, carrying two massive packs EACH!! Their fitness and strength is unbelievable.

Gary - you'd do well to pack the gym in, and get up here and be a porter for a few months, then you'd see the meaning of strong!!

In Muktinath, I saw a man who must have been pushing OAP status, resting next to a load that stood taller and wider than me! On top of this, he was carrying it (As all true porters do) on a strap around his head. Certainly a very humbling experience!
Anyway, back to the porter debate, - Me and Sho both started to develop a certain disdain for these kind of people, (the physically fit, non bag carrying wimp types) spurred on by the thoughts that if me and Sho can do it, then so can these guys!! Incidentally, Sho was carrying exactly the same weight as me and never moaned once!! She wouldn't let me take anything of her bag to lighten the load! I'm sure she has Sherpa/Porter blood in her! She put so many people to shame on the trek - was excellent to watch, and I had many a smug smile to myself as we overtook guys with nothing on their backs. We reasoned that the beer at the end of each day tasted better to us anyway after carrying our own bags!

The rest of the trek involved a few heavy, long uphill days at altitude again, and at times was incredibly hard, but we've both decided that it's been the highlight of the trip so far, and will certainly take some beating! The people we met (Dutch, german, Aussies, Canadian, American, French Canadian, Swiss and English) were all fantastic and the atmosphere in the huts at the end of the day all added to the experience. Next time we come though, we're going for Everest Base Camp - A slightly longer trek, but apparently well worth the slog!

Anyway, I'm going to leave it for now and will endeavour to put some pictures of the route on here for people at home.
I think Sho is going to add her entry at some point today so watch this space!

Rich

Gary - good to see you're reading up on our trip! I sent an email round to everyone with the adress - maybe I sent it to your old email?!

PS - it seems like we're starting to get a bit of a cult following from home?! Certainly makes posting our news more enjoyable!!

As you will have gathered from reading Sho's post, we have safely arrived in Nepal! It is everything we expected and a whole lot more besides! We have both decided that even after only spending just 2 nights here, it is easily the highlight of the trip so far. The scenery is amongst the best we have ever seen (although admittedly on a par with Zermatt in Switzerland and the views from a perfectly clear Helvellyn summit), the people are incredibly friendly and the food is excellent!
Friday am, we get a mountain flight to the village/settlement of Jomsom, located at an altitude of 2.5 thousand metres for the start of our 10 day trek back to Pokarah. We're both looking forward to stretching our legs and hopefully finding some even better views of Annapurna and the surrounding mountains.
The lake (Phewa Tal) on which Pokarah sits, is remarkably like Ullswater in the lakes (a favourite haunt of Sho and I), although with higher mountains and much warmer weather! Yesterday, we took a rowingt boat out in to the lake for an hour - we had a really chilled out romantic day, with beers afterwards in the setting sun!
Today was spent (rather studiously) at the local "International Mountain Museum", a 10 minute taxi ride down some of the narrowest, bumpiest streets we've ever seen. Inside are housed various displays relating to the first ascents of the world's 14 highest peaks and the stories and gear behind them. However, in addition to this, they also have some pretty decent exhibitions detailing the geology of the area and also features that shape the environment such as Glacial Outburst floods (sorry to sound the boring geographer) and also fluvial patterns etc. We were both in our element though, and were able to test our knowledge on the aforementioned subjects, as a result of us both studying these processes at university. In addition, I was also ashamedly pleased to see detailed geological maps of the country! Sad hey!
Later on in the afternoon we spent a considerable time traipsing around the innumerable outdoor gear shops looking for a waterproof jacket for Sho, for our trek. Of about 30 shops, we have narrowed it down to one - the only jacket in the whole of Pokarah which is small enough to fit such a dainty little frame! Anyway, tomorrow we're going to go and sort it out, and are preparing to bargain hard. (Not like we need to - the gear here is unbelievably cheap even at their first price!!)
Anyway, there might not be internet cafes on the trek, so this could potentially be our last entry for a while,(10 days ish), but fear not! We will be updating when we get a chance, with photographs as well hopefully!

Look after yourselves,
Rich and Sho

Mum Holland - The text that you sent me whilst we were in Lumbini and i rang you about keeps getting sent to me over and over again. (must be about 40 times now). Maybe you should check that you're not getting charged for it every time?

Nan - Hope max is looking after you, and he doesnt mind too much the invasion of his second home by a cat? Sho was commenting today on her white linen trousers you took up for her - she reckons they look professional, and says they are a perfect length! Maybe you should charge her next time? Will ring you next time were at a telephone.

Sho's bit
Hi. Just to let you know how fab Nepal is. You should all come here. It is a million times cleaner and easier to survive here than India! I love it. The people are so unbelievably friendly and don't try to rip you off all the time. The climate is perfect... not too hot and not too cold, the scenery is breathtaking and the food is fantastic. Also the company (Rich ) makes it even more perfect! sorry 2 be soppy! lol (think it may be the Everest beer!)
We will DEFINITELY be coming back!

Love to you all
Dobber
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